Our yarns are dyed with commercial dyes that are guaranteed to be light- and wash-fast. We don’t use natural dyes because they don’t allow for a variety of bright colors or fastness. That doesn't mean that Natural Dyes aren't wonderful! We just like bright colors that can be dependably mixed and matched. Nearly every color can be achieved, unlike the limited palette of plant matter and other natural dye sources. Our dyes are completely safe to wear and wash and are also easy and fast to use. We would love to teach you to use dyes on your own - check out our Workshops page to see the variety of classes we offer.
Any item that has been dyed by Nice Threads has been washed thoroughly (cottons and linens are boiled; wools and silks are steamed) to fix the dyes, but there will likely be a small amount of excess dye that will wash out the first few times. Therefore, we recommend washing initially with similar colors and in cool water. Hot water will force the excess dye to wash out more freely. After a few washings, you shouldn't have to worry about dye coming out of your piece.
Cottons and linens can be machine washed and dried, with normal soaps. Wools and silks should be hand-washed with mild soap like Dawn (do not use Woolite - it's too alkaline for wool now that they re-formulated it for all fibers!). It's not a bad idea to rinse your item in cold water with a splash of vinegar to neutralize the alkalinity. Shampoo is a great alternative soap for your animal fiber item - just treat it like your hair! You can even put a few drops of conditioner in the very last rinse to soften your item.
And, be sure to wash your item when you've finished knitting/crocheting/weaving it - in hot water, just this one time - so that the stitches will settle together into a continuous fabric. I've been surprised to hear that many hobbyists don't know that that step is an important finishing process to get the best results.
All yarns and fibers have been pre-shrunk, but in the process of making your hand-made item, will likely shrink a bit so be sure to get more than you need for your project. Please note that Merino yarn or fiber will definitely shrink dependably if "felting" (finishing your item by putting it in the washer/dryer to shrink and harden it) is part of your project. Also note that any of our yarns or fibers labeled Superwash can be machine washed, since the capability of felting/shrinking has been removed from the fibers. I do recommend using a milder soap and warm or cool water. Superwash fibers and yarns are great for socks and baby things, not to mention sweaters for those family members who don't sort through the laundry before tossing things in the machine!
Small batch dyeing will produce colors slightly different every batch so please be sure to order/buy more than you need before you start. If you find you have run out of your hand-dyed yarn or fiber before you are done, we can try to match your colors, but we can’t guarantee a match if you order more in a separate batch.
Get in touch with us if you have any questions about your hand-dyed items!
Friday, May 2, 2014
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Weight, What?
The weight of fiber first intruded on my consciousness when I was in school to learn weaving. We would weigh the cones of yarn from the yarn closet on an old-fashioned baby scale before we wound our warps and shuttles. Then after weaving was done, we would weigh the cones again, giving us the amount of yarn to be charged on our school supply accounts. I never thought much about it other than that it had a nice housekeeping orderliness to the process.
The next time I thought about weight was when I was lugging armfuls of tie-dyed clothing from the car to my booth on the vendor's meadow at music festivals - rayon is heavy! Especially compared to the linen and silk items I was sewing because I couldn't find white linen or silk "blanks" anywhere. I promptly started sewing my own clothing items to save my back.
The third time I had to deal with the weight of fiber -- and I paid attention this time -- was at one of my first felting classes. The students were making hats, and I had put out the big coils of roving in all the glorious colors I had brought for them to pull from. They went wild, and couldn't keep their hands off this color and that (you know the feeling!) and by the end of the class, most people's hats weighed up to a half pound. Heavy, man! After that, I tested to see how little wool was needed for a felt hat and packaged 2 ounces each in all the colors for them to choose from. It was more work for me, but much more successful for the student's first experience in making hats - they were still colorful, but plenty light and warm. Eureka!
The importance of weight in handmade items has been on my mind lately as we package yarns and fiber for the shop, and make suggestions on what amount to buy to make what items. Fleece for felting is easy - I know exactly how much you need for each type of item, from years of weighing before and after, that good habit being ingrained since I went to Haywood. (Thank you, Catherine!)
But the amount of yarn, as well as the amount of fleece to spin yarn is sometimes difficult - so much depends on the designated size of the yarn, the stitch, the needle size, your style of knitting, the patterns you're using, etc, etc. So yardage is a moving target. That's one of the reasons knitters have such a tough time getting a pattern right - especially when they don't take the time to do gauge swatches. But weight, now there's a solid concept in knitting, crochet, and weaving that we can talk about.
Just like the felting student didn't realize that more wool than needed would mean carrying a half pound on her head (I'm getting a headache just thinking about it), you don't want a pound of yarn draped around your shoulders for a shawl, or two pounds of sweater hanging (and stretching) to your knees. And just like the linen and silk tie-dyed items I made were light as a cloud to pack and carry, linen, silk and wool yarns will be far, far lighter than rayon, cotton, and alpaca yarns, so you can get more yardage for the same weight.
I know that most knitting patterns will have the yarn brand, style and number of skeins to buy to make the pattern, and sometimes they will give the weights as well. Sure, you can tell something about the weight of the item from the photo - if it's lace, it's light, right? - but if you do the math on the weight of the yarn called for, you come to find that lacey scarf, made from cotton and rayon yarn, is actually 8 ounces in weight, a half pound hanging from your neck. If you made the same scarf from a wool or silk yarn instead, it might be half that weight.
So my suggestion is, find your favorite items in your closets and drawers to wear. Find a scale that does ounces and pounds, and find out how much it weighs. Then use that weight to buy your yarn. A scarf should be light in the summer and only a little heavier for the winter. A sweater should not weigh more than a pound, and so on.
After you've found an ideal weight for your knitted item, buy that amount of yarn in the size designation that you like to work in. Knit a swatch with the needles that seem to fit that yarn and the stitch pattern that you'd like to use. (start with the needles that a doubled piece of yarn fits through in a needle gauge) Knit at least a 4" x 4" swatch and extrapolate the size of the swatch in weight and size to the larger garment, and change the size of needles and maybe the stitch pattern til you get the right combination that will give you the size and weight of the finished item.
Yes, you can always buy more yarn if you need it, but the point is not to add weight, but to knit to the weight you prefer.
I know that isn't as thought-free as just following a pattern. But you will know with much more certainty that you'll like the finished piece.
The next time I thought about weight was when I was lugging armfuls of tie-dyed clothing from the car to my booth on the vendor's meadow at music festivals - rayon is heavy! Especially compared to the linen and silk items I was sewing because I couldn't find white linen or silk "blanks" anywhere. I promptly started sewing my own clothing items to save my back.
The third time I had to deal with the weight of fiber -- and I paid attention this time -- was at one of my first felting classes. The students were making hats, and I had put out the big coils of roving in all the glorious colors I had brought for them to pull from. They went wild, and couldn't keep their hands off this color and that (you know the feeling!) and by the end of the class, most people's hats weighed up to a half pound. Heavy, man! After that, I tested to see how little wool was needed for a felt hat and packaged 2 ounces each in all the colors for them to choose from. It was more work for me, but much more successful for the student's first experience in making hats - they were still colorful, but plenty light and warm. Eureka!
The importance of weight in handmade items has been on my mind lately as we package yarns and fiber for the shop, and make suggestions on what amount to buy to make what items. Fleece for felting is easy - I know exactly how much you need for each type of item, from years of weighing before and after, that good habit being ingrained since I went to Haywood. (Thank you, Catherine!)
But the amount of yarn, as well as the amount of fleece to spin yarn is sometimes difficult - so much depends on the designated size of the yarn, the stitch, the needle size, your style of knitting, the patterns you're using, etc, etc. So yardage is a moving target. That's one of the reasons knitters have such a tough time getting a pattern right - especially when they don't take the time to do gauge swatches. But weight, now there's a solid concept in knitting, crochet, and weaving that we can talk about.
Just like the felting student didn't realize that more wool than needed would mean carrying a half pound on her head (I'm getting a headache just thinking about it), you don't want a pound of yarn draped around your shoulders for a shawl, or two pounds of sweater hanging (and stretching) to your knees. And just like the linen and silk tie-dyed items I made were light as a cloud to pack and carry, linen, silk and wool yarns will be far, far lighter than rayon, cotton, and alpaca yarns, so you can get more yardage for the same weight.
I know that most knitting patterns will have the yarn brand, style and number of skeins to buy to make the pattern, and sometimes they will give the weights as well. Sure, you can tell something about the weight of the item from the photo - if it's lace, it's light, right? - but if you do the math on the weight of the yarn called for, you come to find that lacey scarf, made from cotton and rayon yarn, is actually 8 ounces in weight, a half pound hanging from your neck. If you made the same scarf from a wool or silk yarn instead, it might be half that weight.
So my suggestion is, find your favorite items in your closets and drawers to wear. Find a scale that does ounces and pounds, and find out how much it weighs. Then use that weight to buy your yarn. A scarf should be light in the summer and only a little heavier for the winter. A sweater should not weigh more than a pound, and so on.
After you've found an ideal weight for your knitted item, buy that amount of yarn in the size designation that you like to work in. Knit a swatch with the needles that seem to fit that yarn and the stitch pattern that you'd like to use. (start with the needles that a doubled piece of yarn fits through in a needle gauge) Knit at least a 4" x 4" swatch and extrapolate the size of the swatch in weight and size to the larger garment, and change the size of needles and maybe the stitch pattern til you get the right combination that will give you the size and weight of the finished item.
Yes, you can always buy more yarn if you need it, but the point is not to add weight, but to knit to the weight you prefer.
I know that isn't as thought-free as just following a pattern. But you will know with much more certainty that you'll like the finished piece.
Wednesday, January 16, 2013
2013 Sock Challenge
I once knitted a pair of socks a long time ago, just one pair, and it took me all year. I was not an enthusiastic knitter, then or now. The socks (I did finish them!) have felted and thickened in washing, so they’re more like slippers now than socks. I didn’t know to look for superwash wool, if they even had it for knitters then. Altogether, not a good experience and it’s a sad thing too. I learned knitting from my mom, who would knit up our Christmas stockings in the fall. I still use double point needles for hats and wristlets, they just feel more natural than circulars.
From a functional standpoint, I go through a lot of department store socks. And increasingly, they are made of non-breathing materials and sprout holes and tears in the toe seams within a year. Cheap materials and factory made, but not a good bargain. I understand that a good knitter can turn out a pair of socks in a day or two. I could really use a dozen well-made socks. I could really use a dozen well-made socks in my favorite colors too. Surely, sock knitting is a learnable skill. So says Robyn, and I’ve watched a series of sock newbies turn out lovely socks in her classes (see photo below).
So my New Year’s resolution - and Nice Threads’ 2013 Sock Challenge - is to learn to make socks with Cat Bordhi’s technique in one of Robyn’s classes and then go on to make a pair of socks by February 15th. And then a pair each month thereafter. I’ll post the results on our FB page, warts and all, but hopefully we’ll see an improvement from the first to the twelfth.
In making this resolution, I’ll be taking my own advice - Make at least 3 of everything! Only in this case, it will be 12, so 4 times as much trial and error, bad technique discovered and experimentation applied. 4 times as many tries as it takes to get it right. In that view, I can relax a bit about making my first pair perfect.
One of the beauties of Cat Bordhi’s technique is that it works with all weights of yarn. That means that all twelve socks can be completely different but I’ll be working the same pattern. My first pair of socks will be of bulky yarn so it will go faster and I won’t have to squint to see the stitches. I don’t know about diamond patterns and lace cuffs, but I’m sure my twelfth pair will be made out of that smooth, glossy superwash/silk yarn I sell to sock knitters at the the shop. And notice that I’m saying my twelfth pair and not my last - I am planning to be a sock knitter from here on out.
I hope you will join me! You can ask to schedule Robyn’s class anytime you are ready, or just drop in between 1pm and 2pm on Saturdays to get started. You need an hour to get the beginning information and then an hour to make your first rounds under Robyn's discerning eye, and then you can go home and finish the sock on your own. You can always make quick visits to Nice Threads for advice and repairs.
But you can also get the book and work along with us in your far-flung, but internet connected homes. A link is below and on our website, to Amazon for Personal Footprints for Insouciant Sock Knitters by Cat Bordhi, our source material. I promise you, it will be worth a book and a year of sock-making. (Who knows, you may perfect your sock knitting by May) I promise to share my sock-making insights along with all 12 pairs of good, bad and ugly, so at the least, check in to our Facebook page for updates.
If you are joining the challenge, upload photos of your socks to our Facebook wall or just send us a message and we’ll repost it. A prize will be given to the person who posts the most socks in the year. And maybe there are some intrepid experts out there who could make a pair of socks every two weeks. Amaze and inspire us and post your socks too!
Thanks and lets get knitting!
Leslie
Monday, July 2, 2012
Following Loose Threads
I hate - HATE - to sew. I hated it when I took sewing lessons at Sears at 16. I hated it when I had to take home ec in high school. But my grandmother was a seamstress at Hart Shaffner Marx, and she made knock-off designer suits and dresses for my mom, who was a model with a taste for couture. Back then, as a teenager and wanna-be hippie, I wore jeans and Indian kurtas, and little else. In the Whole Earth Catalog approach to construction, I made granny dresses from Indian cotton bedspreads for my friends, all hand-seamed and embroidered with peace symbols. Who needed fashion in the love generation?
But here I am. Still making clothing, and acknowledging that my mom’s love of fashion wore off on me in spite of the counter-culture that shaped me. And oddly enough, I’ve retained her respect for quality, in spite of my impatience with details. And that’s one of the reasons I still hate to sew.
The finishing details take the longest time, more time than designing and construction. Neat seams and no loose threads. Knotting and sewing back in the tails is agonizing, but if I’m going to justify charging what I put into the piece, I have to spend those hours squinting at the tiny threads to be sure they are immaculate.
But why do this in the age of WalMart? Who looks at details anymore? Clothing is disposable anyway and everyone expects their clothing to disintegrate after a season or two of wearing. People want cheap clothes now.
Exactly.
That is exactly what is happening to the garment-buying public - clothing has become a commodity - and the idea that we should continue to wear a treasured item is becoming passé.
This saddens me. I still have my mom’s prom dress from the 40s, a navy silk taffeta full-skirted dress, enshrined in my closet. (I can wear it when I am skinny; about once every 5 years I wear it to an event.) I also have my father’s Navy regulation great-coat, made by Navy tailors in Japan during the Korean War. It’s a little big for me but it’s WARM! I still have t-shirts from 20 years ago and a few things from college. There is a story in every item that is told again when I wear that garment.
When Nice Threads first opened, we exhibited a collection of home textiles that Robyn, Eileen and I had inherited from our mothers and grandmothers. Many were hand-woven or hand-embroidered or crocheted. And when someone would come down the stairs and see the dishcloths and table linens, they would invariably start talking about their grandmother or their aunt or their mother, and the textiles that were handed down in their family.
That’s the value of handmade textiles - they last. They are made with a level of quality that is unknown these days. We fiber artists are the last holdouts in the disposable age. And that is the purpose of Nice Threads, to remind people of the quality that has been lost everywhere else.
So if your seams are ragged, and your seam threads are hanging, they will pull out and ravel and all your hard work will be for naught. Don’t undermine your own work that way - take all the time necessary, adopt a Zen mind and knot and thread and stitch down those loose seams so they are secure and neat.
Even if no one notices, you know that jacket or scarf or coat will still be around for the purchaser’s grandkids to say, “Grandma wore this to all of our Christmas parties.” And they will try it on and wear it and keep it carefully for their kids and grandkids. That is your gift to them.
But here I am. Still making clothing, and acknowledging that my mom’s love of fashion wore off on me in spite of the counter-culture that shaped me. And oddly enough, I’ve retained her respect for quality, in spite of my impatience with details. And that’s one of the reasons I still hate to sew.
The finishing details take the longest time, more time than designing and construction. Neat seams and no loose threads. Knotting and sewing back in the tails is agonizing, but if I’m going to justify charging what I put into the piece, I have to spend those hours squinting at the tiny threads to be sure they are immaculate.
But why do this in the age of WalMart? Who looks at details anymore? Clothing is disposable anyway and everyone expects their clothing to disintegrate after a season or two of wearing. People want cheap clothes now.
Exactly.
That is exactly what is happening to the garment-buying public - clothing has become a commodity - and the idea that we should continue to wear a treasured item is becoming passé.
This saddens me. I still have my mom’s prom dress from the 40s, a navy silk taffeta full-skirted dress, enshrined in my closet. (I can wear it when I am skinny; about once every 5 years I wear it to an event.) I also have my father’s Navy regulation great-coat, made by Navy tailors in Japan during the Korean War. It’s a little big for me but it’s WARM! I still have t-shirts from 20 years ago and a few things from college. There is a story in every item that is told again when I wear that garment.
When Nice Threads first opened, we exhibited a collection of home textiles that Robyn, Eileen and I had inherited from our mothers and grandmothers. Many were hand-woven or hand-embroidered or crocheted. And when someone would come down the stairs and see the dishcloths and table linens, they would invariably start talking about their grandmother or their aunt or their mother, and the textiles that were handed down in their family.
That’s the value of handmade textiles - they last. They are made with a level of quality that is unknown these days. We fiber artists are the last holdouts in the disposable age. And that is the purpose of Nice Threads, to remind people of the quality that has been lost everywhere else.
So if your seams are ragged, and your seam threads are hanging, they will pull out and ravel and all your hard work will be for naught. Don’t undermine your own work that way - take all the time necessary, adopt a Zen mind and knot and thread and stitch down those loose seams so they are secure and neat.
Even if no one notices, you know that jacket or scarf or coat will still be around for the purchaser’s grandkids to say, “Grandma wore this to all of our Christmas parties.” And they will try it on and wear it and keep it carefully for their kids and grandkids. That is your gift to them.
Saturday, January 14, 2012
Taking the next steps in fiber
Teaching is a big component of Nice Threads. We spend a lot of time demonstrating and teaching, and our materials shop is designed to support our students for their journey from class to the next piece, and then the next.
At least we hope that our students continue in the techniques that they learn here, but we know that is up to each individual student. We want you leaving our shop confident that you can do [spinning/ weaving/ felting/ dyeing/ knitting, etc] on your own, and hope you come by and ask us for advice when you “lose the thread.” Not everyone who takes classes at Nice Threads will become a working artist, but it's not about the end result, or what you call yourself. Fiber is a journey, not a destination. You may be strolling through, or making careful itineraries, but Fiber is a lifelong endeavor, at any level of proficiency
The big secret to excelling at any of these techniques has to do with a basic fact - it’s all in the numbers. Your second piece will be better than your first, and your fifth piece will kill your second. Keep producing - and please, don’t think of it as practicing!
Practicing brings up scolding mothers and piano lessons on nice days. The word “producing” works better for me. Make a habit of starting a new piece (even if it’s just notes on what you would do better next time) right after you finish the old one. Sketch if that is a good method, or cut photos out… whatever has you planning the next piece. Work on it regularly, even if you do just a little at a time. You will gradually improve technique and trust your own instincts.
On the subject of instincts, and your own personal expression, I leave you with the best advice that has ever been given to an artist (IMHO), in a quote by legendary modern dance artist Martha Graham:
“There is a vitality, a life force, a quickening that is translated through you into action, and there is only one of you in all time; this expression is unique, and if you block it, it will never exist through any other medium and be lost. The world will not have it. It is not your business to determine how good it is, nor how it compares with other expression. It is your business to keep it yours clearly and directly, to keep the channel open. You do not even have to believe in yourself or your work. You have to keep open and aware directly to the urges that motivate you.”
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Coming back to color
Wow, it would seem that we don't have much to say at New Threads, since we haven't blogged since last spring, but that wouldn't be true. The opening and running of a gallery, shop and workshop space has been engulfing, all-encompassing and time-consuming, to say the least! But we've had posts in mind that Facebook couldn't do justice to along the way, and one of those involves color.
Dyeing is one of my favorite fiber arts, since it's practically instant gratification. It's an "I made this!" activity, and if you know some simple techniques, you can dye at home. I dye fiber and yarn every Sunday here at Nice Threads, and our Space Dyeing For Beginners class is a regularly scheduled class for people to try out those simple techniques.
But that's a process class - what are the steps, what equipment, what are the chemicals, how long do you heat, etc. What we can't cover in a drop-in class is 'what colors should we use?', and 'how do we achieve those colors?'
Remember those Tiger Beat and Seventeen interviews with teen stars that always included the cheesy questions like, 'What's your favorite word?' and 'What's your favorite color?' That hasn't changed much these days, but what color Scott Baio liked in the past, or Taylor Lautner likes now makes practically no difference in your life, while your favorite color could be pivotal when you plan to knit your next sweater or weave your next scarf.
It's so interesting when Project Runway contestants choose their fabrics from Mood, taking their inspiration from rolls of fabric that someone else designed, with colors that a fashion industry committee chose. Even when they were allowed to design their own fabrics this season, I noticed that they -unanimously - chose black and white. Not many people have a powerful relationship with color, and those that do, frequently don't know how to create those colors. So we usually get our inspiration from the shelves of yarns at the local store.
But how personal is that? Have you noticed that sometimes you can't find the colors you like, or that the shades are off, or that some seasons, everything is just dog-ugly? Sometimes you are stuck with what you can find. But that doesn't have to be the case.
They say that Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and Color is also a matter of personal choice. But how do you choose? It's a journey that most fiber people take at some point in their development, and it's a fascinating one. And fun. Revel in discovered color, capture color in it's element, master your palette and make color serve your inspiration, rather than the other way around. Come and join our Color Journey for Fiber Artists class, a comprehensive study of color and fiber. Beginning in early November, we'll meet for 3 hours on 3 evenings to develop our color path and then take 2 workshops of 6 hours each, learning to create those colors in the dye kitchen. Open to anyone, at any level. Just email us to get the schedule.
Dyeing is one of my favorite fiber arts, since it's practically instant gratification. It's an "I made this!" activity, and if you know some simple techniques, you can dye at home. I dye fiber and yarn every Sunday here at Nice Threads, and our Space Dyeing For Beginners class is a regularly scheduled class for people to try out those simple techniques.
But that's a process class - what are the steps, what equipment, what are the chemicals, how long do you heat, etc. What we can't cover in a drop-in class is 'what colors should we use?', and 'how do we achieve those colors?'
Remember those Tiger Beat and Seventeen interviews with teen stars that always included the cheesy questions like, 'What's your favorite word?' and 'What's your favorite color?' That hasn't changed much these days, but what color Scott Baio liked in the past, or Taylor Lautner likes now makes practically no difference in your life, while your favorite color could be pivotal when you plan to knit your next sweater or weave your next scarf.
It's so interesting when Project Runway contestants choose their fabrics from Mood, taking their inspiration from rolls of fabric that someone else designed, with colors that a fashion industry committee chose. Even when they were allowed to design their own fabrics this season, I noticed that they -unanimously - chose black and white. Not many people have a powerful relationship with color, and those that do, frequently don't know how to create those colors. So we usually get our inspiration from the shelves of yarns at the local store.
But how personal is that? Have you noticed that sometimes you can't find the colors you like, or that the shades are off, or that some seasons, everything is just dog-ugly? Sometimes you are stuck with what you can find. But that doesn't have to be the case.
They say that Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and Color is also a matter of personal choice. But how do you choose? It's a journey that most fiber people take at some point in their development, and it's a fascinating one. And fun. Revel in discovered color, capture color in it's element, master your palette and make color serve your inspiration, rather than the other way around. Come and join our Color Journey for Fiber Artists class, a comprehensive study of color and fiber. Beginning in early November, we'll meet for 3 hours on 3 evenings to develop our color path and then take 2 workshops of 6 hours each, learning to create those colors in the dye kitchen. Open to anyone, at any level. Just email us to get the schedule.
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Straight from the source
We will definitely carry Jim and Sandy's alpaca blankets so come on over in a week or two to see them.
~~~~~~
Hi Leslie,
This is Jim, the head pooper scooper at Diastole Alpaca Farm answering for Sandy.
We have 6 - 8 blankets left from last year that have been cleaned with our Fuzzinator. Basically a tumbler that we run the fleeces in for an hour on a clear, dry, windy day (or we use a blower on the tumbler). We have been very impressed with the job that it does. It takes minimal picking of debris (seed heads or small twigs) by hand to have a very nice clean product. We also have some seconds and thirds that are cleaned.
We will be shearing on April 14th and cleaning will begin ASAP (weather permiting) afterwards. We just switched everyone over to fresh pastures yesterday with lush green grass. They really have fun when they are let into a pasture they have not been in for several months.
As for packaging - we will do that however you like. The blankets will mostly range from 4-6 pounds - we do have two boys born last fall that will be much less - even though they think they are as big as anyone.
Sandy is working M - W this week and is off the following week (shearing). I can package up what ever you would like and get it out directly. If there are some 2010 fleeces that someone really likes we can reserve this year's shearing for them as well.
A great web site for anyone interested in shearing alpacas is www.allypac.com . We make it a prerequisite for anyone helping us on shearing day. We want it to be a low stress day for the alpacas and the folks we use for the actual shearing have produced this for their customers.
Looking forward to hearing from you - beautiful Black Mountain should be starting to "green-up".
Best Regards - Jim Morris
--
Jim Morris
www.DiastoleAlpacaFarm.com
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